Rakaposhi Expedition (7,788m)

Rakaposhi Peak Expedition was first climbed in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey, members of a British-Pakistani expedition, via the Southwest Spur/Ridge route.

Rakaposhi Expedition

Rakaposhi (7,788m / 25,551 ft) is one of the most majestic peaks in the Karakoram Range, located in the Nagar Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. Often called the “Shining Wall”, Rakaposhi is renowned for its immense vertical relief, rising dramatically over 5,000 meters from its base. The Rakaposhi Expedition offers climbers a mix of technical rock, ice, and snow climbing, making it one of the most challenging and rewarding ascents in the Karakoram.Rakaposhi has a long history of mountaineering attempts, with its first successful ascent in 1958 by a British-Pakistani expedition. Its steep ridges and avalanche-prone slopes demand a high level of technical skill and endurance, making it an excellent challenge for seasoned climbers.

Expedition Overview

Duration: 30-35 Days
Best Time: June to September
Climb Grade: Extremely Difficult (D+/TD in Alpine Grading)
Maximum Elevation: 7,788m (25,551 ft) at the summit
Accommodation: Hotels, Camping
Starting Point: Gilgit
Ending Point: Gilgit

Expedition Highlights
Climb one of the most iconic peaks in the Karakoram (7,788m)
Technical climbing on steep rock and ice faces
Panoramic views of K2, Nanga Parbat, and Ultar Peaks
Experience the stunning beauty of the Nagar Valley
A true test of endurance, skill, and determination

Essential Gear & Packing List
Climbing Equipment:

Ice axe, crampons, harness, and helmet.
Climbing ropes, carabiners, and ascenders.

Clothing & Gear:

High-altitude down suit (-30°C recommended).
Insulated gloves, balaclava, and thermal socks.

Camping & Essentials:

Sleeping bag (-20°C to -30°C recommended).
Cooking gear, hydration system, and energy bars.

Itinerary

Day	From	To	Activity
1	Islamabad	Gilgit	Fly from Islamabad to Gilgit (1-hour flight) or drive via Karakoram Highway (20-24 hours). Explore Gilgit, visit Kargah Buddha, Gilgit Bazaar, or Naltar Valley. Overnight stay in a hotel.
2	Gilgit	Minapin	Scenic drive along the Hunza River, passing through small villages. Arrive at Minapin Village, the starting point of the trek. Meet the porters and finalize expedition preparations. Overnight stay in Minapin.
3	Minapin	Hapakun	Ascend through lush green meadows and alpine forests. Spectacular views of Rakaposhi and Diran Peak (7,266m). Camp overnight at Hapakun.
4	Hapakun	Rakaposhi Base Camp	Trek through rocky terrain and steep ascents. Reach Tagaphari, a beautiful meadow with stunning glacier views. Continue towards Rakaposhi Base Camp, located at the foot of the glacier. Camp overnight at Base Camp.
5-7	Base Camp	Base Camp	Set up tents, prepare climbing routes, and check equipment. Short hikes to higher elevations for altitude adaptation. Practice ice climbing and rope techniques.
8	Base Camp	Camp 1	Steep glacier climbs with deep crevasses and ice falls. Fixed rope sections on steep ice slopes. Establish Camp 1 on a safe ridge.
9-10	Camp 1	Camp 1	Short climbs around Camp 1. Hydration and nutrition focus before ascending higher.
11	Camp 1	Camp 2	Cross snow ridges and avalanche-prone slopes. Set up Camp 2 on an icy plateau.
12-14	Camp 2	Camp 2	Short hikes to prepare for the final ascent. Final preparations for the summit push.
15	Camp 2	Camp 3	Extremely steep ice walls and exposed ridges. Set up Camp 3, the final high camp before summit.
16	Camp 3	Summit & Return to Camp 3	Early morning start (midnight) for summit push. Extreme vertical ice climbing and narrow ridges. Breathtaking summit views of K2, Nanga Parbat, and Ultar Peaks. Descend back to Camp 3 after the summit.
17	Camp 3	Base Camp	Careful descent using fixed ropes. Arrive at Base Camp for celebration.
18	Base Camp	Hapakun	Retrace steps down the glacier and rocky terrain. Camp overnight at Hapakun.
19	Hapakun	Minapin	Return trek through forests and alpine meadows. Overnight stay in Minapin.
20	Minapin	Gilgit	Return drive through scenic Hunza Valley. Rest and celebration in Gilgit.
21	Gilgit	Islamabad	Flight/Drive from Gilgit to Islamabad. End of the expedition.