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Shisper Peak Expedition (7,611 m)

The first successful expedition was made by the "Polish-German Academic Expedition" under Janusz Kurczab in 1974. it took 35 days to ascent to climb this peak.
Shisper Peak Expedition

Shispare is one of the high mountain peaks of the Batura Muztagh, the westernmost subrange of the Karakoram range in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. Alternate forms of the name of this peak include Shispare Sar and Shisparé Sari. Shispare lies east of the Batura Wall, which is the highest part of the Batura Muztagh in Pakistan. The Hunza River curves around the southwest, west, and northwest sides of the Batura Muztagh, and Shispare towers above the western bank of the river. In turn, the Hunza Valley lies in the Hunza District of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan.

History:

Climbing began in the Batura Muztagh later than in other parts of the Karakoram. Shispare was the first major peak in the range to be successfully climbed, in 1974, by the “Polish-German Academic Expedition” under the leadership of Janusz Kurczab. The ascent took 35 days, and during preparations for a second group to try for the summit, one member of the expedition (Heinz Borchers) was killed in an avalanche. The first ascent route followed the Pasu Glacier to the East Ridge, between the Pasu and Ghulkin Glacier. (Note: this ridge goes southeast from the summit, turns northeast, and then turns roughly east, so it is called the “southeast ridge” and the “northeast ridge” in different sources.) Difficulties included a long ice ridge, and the access to the ridge required 1500m of fixed rope. The next attempt was in 1989 by members of the Ryukoku University Alpine Club in Japan, led by Masato Okamoto. The group was on the mountain for almost two months, but was not able to summit; their high point was around 7,200 m (23,620 ft). In 1994, a group from the Komono Alpine Club in Japan, led by Yukiteru Masui, achieved the second ascent of the peak. They reached Base Camp on June 18, and Masui, Kokubu, and Ozawa reached the summit on July 20. They followed the same route as the first ascent party and climbed in a similar style, with a similar amount of fixed rope. The Himalayan Index lists no other ascents or attempts of this peak.

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Itinerary
 No of Days   From    To 
 Day 1  home  islamabad
 Day 2  islamabad  purchasing/breifing
 Day 3  purchasing/breifing  chillas
 Day 4  chillas  karimabad
 Day 5  karimabad  sust
 Day 6  sust  passu ghar
 Day 7  passu ghar  luzdhar
 Day 8  luzdhar  patundas
 Day 9  patundas  base camp
 Day 10-34  climbing  climbing
 Day 35  back  Yunzben
 Day 36  Yunzben  passu
 Day 37  passu  gilgit
 Day 38  gilgit  islamabad
 Day 39  islamabad  extra day
 Day 40  Islamabad  fly back
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      Head Office
      Shaheed Colony Skardu Opposite Ghanche Store Gilgit Baltistan.
      Contact Office
      Near HBS Hospital Alipur Islamabad.
      We Are Affiliated With
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